映画監督・藤井道人が巡る京都の酒蔵の魅力とは?

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バラエティ豊かな商品を飲み比べ「全然違いますね」と驚く藤井さん。「玉川」の多様な酒質は原料米や造り方の違いだけでなく、蔵内での熟成商品によりさらに幅が広がる。新酒を瓶詰めして寝かせる場合と、タンクで寝かせアルコール度数を下げてから瓶詰めするといった違いも。

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仕込蔵の戸の感触を確かめ、180年の歴史に思いを馳せる。

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左から2010年、2015年、2020年ヴィンテージの熟成酒をセットにした「Time MachineS」(1万1000円)。「玉川」の定番ともいえる自然仕込シリーズの「純米酒(山廃) 無濾過生原酒」(1540円)。

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安永6(1777)年創業時から酒蔵を見守る、樹齢300年を超える椎木。

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趣ある蔵の前で話す白杉さんと藤井さん。

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酒母に黒麹を仕込んだ「SHIRAKIKU BLACK LABELREVOLUTION」(2145円)を試飲し「パイナップルみたいな風味」と藤井さん。

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中央の「キメラ」(1815円)のボトルは、白杉さんによるデザイン。

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「こだま樽熟成」の白3630円と赤4620円、京都産ぶどう100%の「特撰サペラヴィ樽熟成」5280円。

" } [8]=> array(2) { ["entry_gallery_image"]=> array(24) { ["ID"]=> int(1243990) ["id"]=> int(1243990) ["title"]=> string(28) "c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08" ["filename"]=> string(32) "c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08.jpg" ["filesize"]=> int(290923) ["url"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08.jpg" ["link"]=> string(68) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1243967/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08" ["alt"]=> string(0) "" ["author"]=> string(2) "21" ["description"]=> string(0) "" ["caption"]=> string(0) "" ["name"]=> string(28) "c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08" ["status"]=> string(7) "inherit" ["uploaded_to"]=> int(1243967) ["date"]=> string(19) "2022-11-15 08:12:44" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2022-11-15 08:12:44" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["mime_type"]=> string(10) "image/jpeg" ["type"]=> string(5) "image" ["subtype"]=> string(4) "jpeg" ["icon"]=> string(61) "http://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png" ["width"]=> int(750) ["height"]=> int(452) ["sizes"]=> array(18) { ["thumbnail"]=> string(93) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08-150x150.jpg" ["thumbnail-width"]=> int(150) ["thumbnail-height"]=> int(150) ["medium"]=> string(93) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08-300x181.jpg" ["medium-width"]=> int(300) ["medium-height"]=> int(181) ["medium_large"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08.jpg" ["medium_large-width"]=> int(750) ["medium_large-height"]=> int(452) ["large"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08.jpg" ["large-width"]=> int(750) ["large-height"]=> int(452) ["1536x1536"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08.jpg" ["1536x1536-width"]=> int(750) ["1536x1536-height"]=> int(452) ["2048x2048"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg08.jpg" ["2048x2048-width"]=> int(750) ["2048x2048-height"]=> int(452) } } ["entry_gallery_description"]=> string(88) "

丹後半島を一周するRt178号線沿いに佇む絶景のワイナリー。

" } [9]=> array(2) { ["entry_gallery_image"]=> array(24) { ["ID"]=> int(1243992) ["id"]=> int(1243992) ["title"]=> string(28) "c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10" ["filename"]=> string(32) "c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10.jpg" ["filesize"]=> int(396279) ["url"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10.jpg" ["link"]=> string(68) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/archives/1243967/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10" ["alt"]=> string(0) "" ["author"]=> string(2) "21" ["description"]=> string(0) "" ["caption"]=> string(0) "" ["name"]=> string(28) "c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10" ["status"]=> string(7) "inherit" ["uploaded_to"]=> int(1243967) ["date"]=> string(19) "2022-11-15 08:12:45" ["modified"]=> string(19) "2022-11-15 08:12:45" ["menu_order"]=> int(0) ["mime_type"]=> string(10) "image/jpeg" ["type"]=> string(5) "image" ["subtype"]=> string(4) "jpeg" ["icon"]=> string(61) "http://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-includes/images/media/default.png" ["width"]=> int(750) ["height"]=> int(452) ["sizes"]=> array(18) { ["thumbnail"]=> string(93) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10-150x150.jpg" ["thumbnail-width"]=> int(150) ["thumbnail-height"]=> int(150) ["medium"]=> string(93) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10-300x181.jpg" ["medium-width"]=> int(300) ["medium-height"]=> int(181) ["medium_large"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10.jpg" ["medium_large-width"]=> int(750) ["medium_large-height"]=> int(452) ["large"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10.jpg" ["large-width"]=> int(750) ["large-height"]=> int(452) ["1536x1536"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10.jpg" ["1536x1536-width"]=> int(750) ["1536x1536-height"]=> int(452) ["2048x2048"]=> string(85) "https://www.mens-ex.jp/wp/wp-content/uploads/2022/11/c_lifestyle_221118_sake_pg10.jpg" ["2048x2048-width"]=> int(750) ["2048x2048-height"]=> int(452) } } ["entry_gallery_description"]=> string(140) "

右:約4haのぶどう畑。左:館内ではガラス越しにドイツ製の醸造タンク、瓶詰め室の見学も可能。

" } }

>> この記事の先頭に戻る

白杉酒造
食用米のみで全ての日本酒を造る日本で唯一の酒蔵

<p>安永6(1777)年創業時から酒蔵を見守る、樹齢300年を超える椎木。</p>

安永6(1777)年創業時から酒蔵を見守る、樹齢300年を超える椎木。

<p>趣ある蔵の前で話す白杉さんと藤井さん。</p>

趣ある蔵の前で話す白杉さんと藤井さん。

<p>酒母に黒麹を仕込んだ「SHIRAKIKU BLACK LABELREVOLUTION」(2145円)を試飲し「パイナップルみたいな風味」と藤井さん。</p>

酒母に黒麹を仕込んだ「SHIRAKIKU BLACK LABELREVOLUTION」(2145円)を試飲し「パイナップルみたいな風味」と藤井さん。

<p>中央の「キメラ」(1815円)のボトルは、白杉さんによるデザイン。</p>

中央の「キメラ」(1815円)のボトルは、白杉さんによるデザイン。

「独創性を大切にされる姿勢、シンパシーを感じます」――藤井さん

11代目蔵元兼杜氏である白杉 悟さんは、おじである先代の養子となるべく大学卒業後に京丹後に移り住む。初めて京丹後のお米を食べたときに「お米ってこんなに美味しかったのか」と感動。地域の食用米で日本酒を造り、京丹後のお米の美味しさに目を向けてもらうことが地酒を造る意義につながると考え、酒米ではなく食用米による日本酒造りに挑んだ。

麹や酵母を変えるなど数年間に及ぶ試行錯誤を経て、7年前からは日本で唯一の全量食用米による日本酒造りに励む。食用米を手で洗い仕込むといった徹底ぶりだ。

白杉さん曰く「自分たちの酒造りのモチベーションを上げる冒険心を生み出すべく、毎年自分に新しい課題を設けて新しいお酒に挑戦しているうちに、いつのまにか種類が増えていった」。白・黒・黄の3種の麹と酵母を使用した「キメラ」や、リンゴ酸酵母を使用した「ミラーミラー」など、多彩なラインナップが並ぶ。

「オリジナリティに溢れつつ、ご自分なりのアレンジが幅広くて、同業かな、と思うくらいシンパシーを感じます」(藤井さん)

白杉酒造

住所:京都府京丹後市大宮町周枳954
TEL:0772-64-2101
営業時間:13時15分~17時(11月~3月)
定休日:土日祝日 そのほか臨時休業あり

<p>バラエティ豊かな商品を飲み比べ「全然違いますね」と驚く藤井さん。「玉川」の多様な酒質は原料米や造り方の違いだけでなく、蔵内での熟成商品によりさらに幅が広がる。新酒を瓶詰めして寝かせる場合と、タンクで寝かせアルコール度数を下げてから瓶詰めするといった違いも。</p>

バラエティ豊かな商品を飲み比べ「全然違いますね」と驚く藤井さん。「玉川」の多様な酒質は原料米や造り方の違いだけでなく、蔵内での熟成商品によりさらに幅が広がる。新酒を瓶詰めして寝かせる場合と、タンクで寝かせアルコール度数を下げてから瓶詰めするといった違いも。

<p>仕込蔵の戸の感触を確かめ、180年の歴史に思いを馳せる。</p>

仕込蔵の戸の感触を確かめ、180年の歴史に思いを馳せる。

<p>左から2010年、2015年、2020年ヴィンテージの熟成酒をセットにした「Time MachineS」(1万1000円)。「玉川」の定番ともいえる自然仕込シリーズの「純米酒(山廃) 無濾過生原酒」(1540円)。</p>

左から2010年、2015年、2020年ヴィンテージの熟成酒をセットにした「Time MachineS」(1万1000円)。「玉川」の定番ともいえる自然仕込シリーズの「純米酒(山廃) 無濾過生原酒」(1540円)。

<p>安永6(1777)年創業時から酒蔵を見守る、樹齢300年を超える椎木。</p>

安永6(1777)年創業時から酒蔵を見守る、樹齢300年を超える椎木。

<p>趣ある蔵の前で話す白杉さんと藤井さん。</p>

趣ある蔵の前で話す白杉さんと藤井さん。

<p>酒母に黒麹を仕込んだ「SHIRAKIKU BLACK LABELREVOLUTION」(2145円)を試飲し「パイナップルみたいな風味」と藤井さん。</p>

酒母に黒麹を仕込んだ「SHIRAKIKU BLACK LABELREVOLUTION」(2145円)を試飲し「パイナップルみたいな風味」と藤井さん。

<p>中央の「キメラ」(1815円)のボトルは、白杉さんによるデザイン。</p>

中央の「キメラ」(1815円)のボトルは、白杉さんによるデザイン。

<p>「こだま樽熟成」の白3630円と赤4620円、京都産ぶどう100%の「特撰サペラヴィ樽熟成」5280円。</p>

「こだま樽熟成」の白3630円と赤4620円、京都産ぶどう100%の「特撰サペラヴィ樽熟成」5280円。

<p>丹後半島を一周するRt178号線沿いに佇む絶景のワイナリー。</p>

丹後半島を一周するRt178号線沿いに佇む絶景のワイナリー。

<p>右:約4haのぶどう畑。左:館内ではガラス越しにドイツ製の醸造タンク、瓶詰め室の見学も可能。</p>

右:約4haのぶどう畑。左:館内ではガラス越しにドイツ製の醸造タンク、瓶詰め室の見学も可能。

2025

VOL.345

Spring

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