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【Polo Ralph Lauren】 “Vintage Guide for Beginners” By Shuhei Nishiguchi

公開日：2021/11/22

コーディネート実例 お洒落の簡単テクニック お洒落のマメ知識

【Polo Ralph Lauren】 “Vintage Guide for Beginners” By Shuhei Nishiguchi

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The Back Collar Reinforcement Stitching

“On the collar band there are parallel stitches running along the horizontal, and on the verso side of the collar leaf there’s a zig-zag stitch applied. Both of these details are intended to strengthen the collar, and are characteristic specifications of the trench coat which was originally borne of military wear. This garment’s charm lies in its serious construction, down to the finest detail.”

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The Belt’s D Loops

“A few D hooks are furnished around the waist belt. These were originally meant for hanging things like hand grenades, and are a detail that impart a decisively casual feeling. The buckle hardware is neatly wrapped in leather, speaking to its excellent construction.”

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Inverted Pleats

“There are deep pleats in the back. The hidden detail of the inward-facing inverted pleats, despite giving the garment ample allowance, is special in that it keep the garment looking clean and sharp. When you walk, they open up according to the way you move, giving a nuanced sense of presence to the wearer.”

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The V-Zone with an American slant

The inner garments that are paired with this English brand suit, are a western shirt and a silk scarf with a bandana pattern. Mixing Anglo-American styles is a quintessentially Nishiguchi-esque style signifier. Aside from the coat, all of the elements are all uniformly black, lending a more modern impression to the look.

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Styling it with the chin-flap closed is elegant, too.

It also looks elegant in that manly style where you do the buttons all the way to the top, fasten the belt, and pop up the collar with the chin flap buckled in. The ample sleeve with a lively X-line, coupled with the gently sloping shoulder area lends a prominent sense of classic beauty to the figure.

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The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric

The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

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Even the Back is Impressive

The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.

" } }

>> この記事の先頭に戻る

Here’s How Nishiguchi Does It!
“A New Interpretation of Anglo-American Style”

Matching Belgian loafers and a Western shirt with a Richard James linen suit, makes this outfit lean towards a properly dressed-down suit style. “I became aware of British American style from Polo Ralph Lauren’s coats, even though the brand totally diverges with tradition. I’m mixing together Anglo-American styles by pairing a Savile Row tailored suit with a typical American western shirt and bandana-patterned scarf.

The V-Zone with an American slant

The inner garments that are paired with this English brand suit, are a western shirt and a silk scarf with a bandana pattern. Mixing Anglo-American styles is a quintessentially Nishiguchi-esque style signifier. Aside from the coat, all of the elements are all uniformly black, lending a more modern impression to the look.

<p><strong>Styling it with the chin-flap closed is elegant, too.</strong></p>
<p>It also looks elegant in that manly style where you do the buttons all the way to the top, fasten the belt, and pop up the collar with the chin flap buckled in. The ample sleeve with a lively X-line, coupled with the gently sloping shoulder area lends a prominent sense of classic beauty to the figure. </p>

Styling it with the chin-flap closed is elegant, too.

It also looks elegant in that manly style where you do the buttons all the way to the top, fasten the belt, and pop up the collar with the chin flap buckled in. The ample sleeve with a lively X-line, coupled with the gently sloping shoulder area lends a prominent sense of classic beauty to the figure.

<p><strong>The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric</strong></p>
<p>The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.</p>

The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric

The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

<p><strong>Even the Back is Impressive</strong></p>
<p>The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.</p>

Even the Back is Impressive

The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.

Shuhei Nishiguchi　
Born 1977. Shuhei Nishiguchi is a Men’s fashion director who is now flooded with interview requests each month from every fashion media outlet, not least of all this one. While a specialist in proposing updated classic style, he also has an apprentice-like passion for vintage, formerly working in a used clothing store. “I see new items and old items on a level playing field,” says the man himself, whose unfettered mixture of both aspects in his styling garners world-wide notoriety. In March of this year he published his second work, “Nishiguchi Essentials 100” (One Publishing Editions).

Photography: Takeshi Wakabayashi
Writing: Hiromitsu kosone
Translation: Christopher Berry

<p><strong>The Back Collar Reinforcement Stitching</strong></p>
<p>“On the collar band there are parallel stitches running along the horizontal, and on the verso side of the collar leaf there’s a zig-zag stitch applied. Both of these details are intended to strengthen the collar, and are characteristic specifications of the trench coat which was originally borne of military wear. This garment’s charm lies in its serious construction, down to the finest detail.”</p>

The Back Collar Reinforcement Stitching

“On the collar band there are parallel stitches running along the horizontal, and on the verso side of the collar leaf there’s a zig-zag stitch applied. Both of these details are intended to strengthen the collar, and are characteristic specifications of the trench coat which was originally borne of military wear. This garment’s charm lies in its serious construction, down to the finest detail.”

<p><strong>The Belt’s D Loops</strong></p>
<p>“A few D hooks are furnished around the waist belt. These were originally meant for hanging things like hand grenades, and are a detail that impart a decisively casual feeling. The buckle hardware is neatly wrapped in leather, speaking to its excellent construction.”</p>

The Belt’s D Loops

“A few D hooks are furnished around the waist belt. These were originally meant for hanging things like hand grenades, and are a detail that impart a decisively casual feeling. The buckle hardware is neatly wrapped in leather, speaking to its excellent construction.”

<p><strong>Inverted Pleats</strong></p>
<p>“There are deep pleats in the back. The hidden detail of the inward-facing inverted pleats, despite giving the garment ample allowance, is special in that it keep the garment looking clean and sharp. When you walk, they open up according to the way you move, giving a nuanced sense of presence to the wearer.”</p>

Inverted Pleats

“There are deep pleats in the back. The hidden detail of the inward-facing inverted pleats, despite giving the garment ample allowance, is special in that it keep the garment looking clean and sharp. When you walk, they open up according to the way you move, giving a nuanced sense of presence to the wearer.”

The V-Zone with an American slant

The inner garments that are paired with this English brand suit, are a western shirt and a silk scarf with a bandana pattern. Mixing Anglo-American styles is a quintessentially Nishiguchi-esque style signifier. Aside from the coat, all of the elements are all uniformly black, lending a more modern impression to the look.

Styling it with the chin-flap closed is elegant, too.

It also looks elegant in that manly style where you do the buttons all the way to the top, fasten the belt, and pop up the collar with the chin flap buckled in. The ample sleeve with a lively X-line, coupled with the gently sloping shoulder area lends a prominent sense of classic beauty to the figure.

The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric

The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

Even the Back is Impressive

The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.

TAG：

2025

VOL.345

Spring

【Polo Ralph Lauren】 “Vintage Guide for Beginners” By Shuhei Nishiguchi

Here’s How Nishiguchi Does It! “A New Interpretation of Anglo-American Style”

The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

Even the Back is Impressive The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.

The Belt’s D Loops “A few D hooks are furnished around the waist belt. These were originally meant for hanging things like hand grenades, and are a detail that impart a decisively casual feeling. The buckle hardware is neatly wrapped in leather, speaking to its excellent construction.”

The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

Even the Back is Impressive The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.

INSTAGRAM

Here’s How Nishiguchi Does It!
“A New Interpretation of Anglo-American Style”

The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric

The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

Even the Back is Impressive

The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.

The Belt’s D Loops

“A few D hooks are furnished around the waist belt. These were originally meant for hanging things like hand grenades, and are a detail that impart a decisively casual feeling. The buckle hardware is neatly wrapped in leather, speaking to its excellent construction.”

The lightly-veiled ultra-thin fabric

The pleasant lightness of the ultra-thin typewriter fabric in which this coat is made, is half-the appeal. Its extremely beautiful when you walk, as the hem nimbly floats along like a cloud.

Even the Back is Impressive

The ample and full style of the back displays a classic charm. A large umbrella yoke, and a belt with D-rings. This combined with the inverted pleats, and the impressive overall design draws the eye.