イタリアとライブ中継で相談できる「ブリオーニのバーチャルオーダー」開催！
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>> この記事の先頭に戻る
「バーチャル オーダー」を体験！
１ 生地はあらかじめリクエストしておく
注文主はあらかじめ、“こんなイメージの生地で作りたい”というイメージをリクエストしておく。リクエストはイタリアのペトルッチ氏と共有され、氏が当日までにおすすめの生地を何種類か選んでおいてくれる。ちなみにMr.Davidは「目付350〜500g、フランネルやツイル、カバートなどクラシックな組織、色みはライト〜ミディアムグレーで、柄ものならチョークストライプや千鳥格子、ピンヘッド、シャドーチェック、バーズアイなど」とリクエスト。
２ モニター越しにマスターテーラーがコンサルテーション
当日ブリオーニ銀座店を訪れると、リクエストに沿ってペトルッチ氏が選んだ生地サンプルがテーブルに並べられる。同じ生地サンプルをペトルッチ氏も用意していて、順番に生地の説明をしてくれる。バーチャルといいつつもモニターが大きいのでペトルッチ氏が目の前にいるような感覚で音声もよく聞こえ、またイタリアサイドのカメラワークも抜群で、手元の生地を実際に触りつつ、ペトルッチ氏の解説の際には生地を大きく拡大して見せてくれるので、まるで実際に接客を受けているような感覚で生地選びを進められるのだ。
ちなみに、こちらがMr.Davidのために用意された生地。リクエストに対して機械的に生地を用意するのではなく、しっかり意図を解釈しつつ、あえて幅をもたせた提案をしてくれる。今回の場合、Mr.Davidがリクエストしたグレーだけでなく、ブラウン系のシックな生地も用意されていた。結果的にMr.Davidが選んだのはブラウン×ネイビーのチェック柄。テーラーと相談しながら、新しい可能性を探っていけるのもビスポークの醍醐味だ。
３ ボタンや裏地、ディテールも好みに選べる
生地が決まったら、ボタンや裏地をセレクト。裏地も、シンプルな無地から、プリントパターンのものまで多様に揃う。またボタンも、ネイビーやブラウンといったベーシックカラーに加え、メタルボタンなどもあり。
いろいろ相談した結果、こちらのブラウン地にネイビーのウインドウペーン、ネイビー裏地、ブラウンボタンという組み合わせに決定。
「たとえば、最初はブラウンのボタンにしたけれど後でやっぱりネイビーのボタンに付け替えたかったら銀座店に来て相談することができます。一度作った型紙は、本国でずっと保管しているから、次からは好きな生地や形を自由に相談しながら作ることが出来るんですよ。All your dreams can be available！」と、ペトルッチ氏。こういった自由度があるのも、オーダーの醍醐味のひとつ。
４ 採寸は銀座店のテーラーが担当
バーチャルオーダーで大きなネックとなるのが採寸だが、ブリオーニ銀座店にはリージョナルテーラーが駐在しているため、その問題も解決。ブリオーニの仕立てを知り尽くしたスペシャリストゆえ、イタリアとのコンセンサスも完璧だ。
採寸にあたっては、まずベースモデルを決定する。アンコン仕立てで肩パッドを省いた「Plume（プルーム）」、クラシックな仕立ての「Ravello（ラベッロ）」、その中間的な仕立ての「Condotti（コンドッティ）」といった具合に、様々なスタイルを選択可能だ。ベースモデルが決まったら、リージョナルテーラーが採寸。肩幅を広めにしたい、ボタンの位置を高めにしたいなど、あらゆるリクエストに対応してくれる。
５ 約３週間で仮縫いへ
採寸データはイタリア本国に送られ、製作が進められる。ブリオーニの「スマートビスポーク」は、約3週間後には、仮縫いガーメントによるファーストサンプルが日本に届くというスピーディさも魅力だ。仮縫い時には再度銀座店を訪れ、その後約10週間で納品となる。さて、Mr.Davidがビスポークしたジャケットはどのように仕上がってくるのか？ その結果は、後日「Mr.David Diary」で本人がじっくりレポート予定。乞うご期待！
バーチャルオーダー会は11月21日まで開催中！ 【ブリオーニ 銀座店】
オーダー価格はスーツ78万5000円〜、ジャケット62万2000円〜、コート63万7000円〜、タキシード93万4000円～、トラウザーズ19万3000円～、シャツ7万4000円～（2020年秋冬ファブリックでのオーダー価格）すべて税抜き
