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悩ましい、シャツの生地選び
「まずは生地を選んでいきましょう。シンプルなものから個性的なものまでバリエーション豊かに取り揃えていますよ」と越智店長。本格派シャツに相応しい生地見本はどれだろうか……? 生地をペラペラと捲りながら説明を受ける。
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「ロンドンストライプ」が気になる!
様々な生地を見ていく中で中島の目に留まったのは、ストライプの柄。「これはロンドンストライプですね。クラシックな風格がありつつ、コーディネートしやすい柄です」。縦糸は高級超長綿スーピマ100番双糸・横糸も同じくスーピマの50番単糸を使用しており、柔らかでしなやかな風合い。本格派シャツにピッタリだ!
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バックスタイルはオススメのモデルが
後ろ姿の印象を大きく変えるバックスタイルは、麻布テーラーでは6種類のモデルを用意。「これまで華奢な体型の方には『Darts』というモデルをオススメしてきたのですが、今回はより絞りの効いた「インバーテッドプリーツ」のタッキングという新モデルを是非検討していただきたいです。実物をお持ちします」
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「インバーテッドプリーツ」のタッキングは驚きのスリムさ!
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「タブカラー×クレリック」がVゾーンを立体的に!
襟は、とある2つの仕様の掛け合わせがオススメとのこと。「タブカラーとクレリックの掛け合わせに是非挑戦してほしいです。タブカラーにすることでネクタイがグッと持ち上がり、さらにクレリック仕様にすることで視覚的なメリハリが生まれます。立体的なVゾーンをつくる上で、活躍してくれます!」
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袖は、「角落ダブルボタン型」が気になる
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とっておきの釦で上質な印象に!
「釦は、プラスチック製のものでも充分だとは思いますが、白蝶貝のものを是非。真珠を生み出すことのできる貝から作られるもので希少性が高く、上質な印象をプラスすることができますよ」。確かにプラスチックに比べて光沢が美しい。折角なので、白蝶貝を選択!
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刺繍を入れて、自分専用感をプラス
「ネーム刺繍を入れることも可能ですよ」。刺繍を入れる上での理想的な位置は、左胸とウエストの間とのこと。「袖口などに入れることもできますが、まずは王道の位置がよろしいかと」。ネーム刺繍を決めたところで、仕様決めは終了!
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肩幅と胴回りがポイント
首周り、胸囲、胴回り、肩幅を測定していく。「肩は結構しっかりされていて幅も広めです。対して胴回りは狭めですね。この辺りがポイントになってくると思います」
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手持ちのシャツは、どこが問題か?
手持ちのシャツはプロの目から見ても今一つ。「やはり胴回りですよね。だいぶ余ってしまっています。ここを絞ればだいぶ印象が変わると思いますよ。あとは、袖がやや短いですね。もう少し長めの方が、正統だと思います」
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胴回りは調整の必要なし?
パターンサンプルのシャツに着替え、補整を進めていく。「肩はやや窮屈そうなので、もう少し出した方が良いですね。胴回りについてですが、オーダーいただいているモデルはウエストがキュッと6cm細くなるので、補整は必要ないと思います。ピタピタ過ぎると華奢さが目立ってしまう可能性があります」
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袖は、さらに細くすべし
続いて袖丈の補整。やや長いので少し短くすることに。それに加えて、袖の幅についても補整が必要とのこと。「袖の幅が緩いように見えます。スリム袖という細くできる仕様があるので、それを追加しておきますね」
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string(451) "
首のサイズは洗濯の縮みも考慮して
首のサイズはちょうど良いように思えたが、そうとも限らないとのこと。「確かに現状は指が1本入るくらいでちょうど良いのですが、シャツは洗うとどうしても縮みが出てしまうんですよね。なので、指が2本入るくらいの状態でお渡しするくらいがちょうど良いと思います」
"
}
}