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【こっそりヒント】
運針が細かいのはどちらか?
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ドレスシャツの印象を大きく左右するのが運針の細かさ。細かいほど繊細でエレガントに見えますが、その分細い糸を使って丁寧に縫わなければならず、当然縫製にかける時間も長くなります。
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【こっそりヒント】
アームホールの縫いが曲線になっているのはどちらか?
"
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【こっそりヒント】
袖が後付けされているかのはどちらか?
"
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運動量の多い腕の付け根は着心地に関わる最重要箇所。そのため、高いシャツは袖を縫ってから肩形状に合わせ前振りにセットしますが、安いものは脇から一気に縫って手間を省いています。
"
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【こっそりヒント】
カフが尻すぼみになっているのはどちらか?
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【こっそりヒント】
柄が合っているのはどちらか?
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【こっそりヒント】
ボタンやボタンホールが美しいのはどちらか?
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【こっそりヒント】
サイドが本巻き縫いされているのはどちらか?
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縫製のレベルが最もわかりやすいのが身頃のサイド。高いシャツは熟練職人による細い本巻き縫いで縫われていますが、安いシャツは本縫いのみです。耐久性や美しさに圧倒的な差が出ます。
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【こっそりヒント】
カラーバンドが気持ち上がっているのはどちらか?
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襟を首元へ立体的に沿わせるためには、やや上向きにカーブしているカラーバンドが理想的。これが真っすぐだと縫いやすいですが、襟が浮き立ってきっちりと見えず、着心地も悪くなります。
"
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