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Customer lasts are custom made. Custom orders comprise 75% of Russell’s orders.
顧客の木型はカスタムメイド。カスタムオーダーは、ラッセルの全注文のうち75％を占める。
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A shoemaker customizing a customer’s last.
顧客の木型を作る靴職人
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Toe pieces being skived to reduce the thickness of the leather in areas where it is to be sewn.
つま先の縫い合わされる部分は、革の厚さを取り除くために裂かれます。
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The upper assembly station where the quarters are stitched to the vamp; backstays, collars and eyelet facings are all attached and stitched into place. In this photo a pair of snake proof boots are to be assembled. The off-white fabric is ‘Turtleskin.’ a Kevlar fabric which is impervious to snakebites. Snake proof boots are popular in the southern United States where snakes are prevalent .
甲の部分を縫い合わせるステーションでは、つま革に、かかと部分、カラー、アイレットの化粧面などが組み合わされ、縫い合わされます。この写真では、蛇から足を守るブーツが組み合わされています。オフホワイトの生地は、蛇にかまれても耐えられるケブラ生地の「タートルスキン」です。蛇の多いアメリカ南部では、防蛇のブーツが人気があります。
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A shoemaker pulling a vamp, which has been soaked in water, up onto a custom last.
カスタムの木型に合わせて、水に浸していたつま革を引き抜く靴職人
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Custom lasts in the foreground which have been built up by tacking leather, in this case, to the insteps.
The shoemaker is holding a boot with the vamps pulled up and tacked onto a custom last.
この場合は、足の甲に合わせて、革を仮留めして、前面を組み立てているカスタムの木型。靴職人は、ブーツのつま革を引き伸ばして、カスタムの木型に合わせています。
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Boots dry on a rack for one day after being soaked in water and having the vamps pulled up and tacked to the last. When the leather dries it will form perfectly to the custom last.
水に浸し、つま革を木型に合わせて引き伸ばした後、ラックの上でブーツを丸一日乾かします。革が乾く際に、完璧に木型に沿って形ができあがります。
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Excess leather being trimmed from the molded vamp
つま革の余分な革をトリムします
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Hand stitching a toe piece using an overlap stitch.
つま先部分をオーバーラップステッチで、手で縫い合わせます
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Joe taking several measurements for my next pair of Russells
私の次のラッセル用に、測定をしてくれているジョー
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Suzie and Joe at the entrance of the factory. 工場の入り口にて、スージーとジョー。
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