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1972年に登場したロイヤルオークによって、ラグジュアリー・スポーツウォッチの代名詞として知られるオーデマ・ピゲだが、それ以前にはこのような薄型ドレスウォッチも数多く製作していた。シンプルなバーインデックスに細身のバトンハンドという極めてシンプルなデザインながら、印象的なミラーダイヤルとホワイトゴールドケースが静かな存在感を放っている。ケース径は33.5㎜。ドレスウォッチの王道といえるサイズ感だ。45万円
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世界三大時計ブランドのひとつに数えられる雲上ブランド。ケースとラグが一体化した1970年代らしいオーバルシェイプに、ローマンインデックスとリーフ針というエレガントなデザインを組み合わせているのが魅力的だ。非常に薄型ながら自動巻きのムーブメントを搭載しているのも特徴。文字盤は美しい筋目が走るサテン仕上げ、ホワイトゴールドのケースもケースに沿った円形のヘアライン仕上げになっている。品格とともに精悍さも感じさせる顔つきだ。縦33×横34㎜。58万円
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ブランパン 1970年代
ヴィンテージダイバーズのイメージが強いブランパンだが、こちらは希少なドレスウォッチ。シンプルな2針＆バーインデックスに加え、直線状のラグが端正な雰囲気を醸し出している。高級感満点かつ控えめなホワイトゴールドケースともあいまって、日常のビジネスシーンだけでなくフォーマルの場にもふさわしい時計だ。ケース径33㎜。40万円
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これぞヴィンテージ・ヴァシュロンといった貴族的な風格の漂う一本。32.5㎜の小ぶりなラウンドゴールドケースで、ベゼル部分には非常に細かなコインエッジの装飾、繊細な3針で、文字盤にはブランドのアイコンであるマルタ十字が光る。12、3、6、9時位置を強調したバーインデックスも、さりげない個性が光るデザインだ。スーツやジャケットに最適だが、ニットなどカジュアルアイテムにも似合う懐の深い表情。63万円
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エッジが丸みを帯びた、小ぶりのレクタンギュラーケースが優美な一本。ゴールドケースにゴールドダイヤルという組み合わせだが、まったく嫌味さを感じさせない上品さがこの時代のピアジェならでは。縦23.5×横23㎜とほぼ正方形のケースも特徴的。ドレッシーなツヤありのクロコダイルストラップがよく似合う表情だ。35万円
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IWC 1971年
「IWC」ロゴと「International Watch Co.」の筆記体ロゴが併記される1971年製の一本。ドレッシーな薄型のホワイトゴールドケースという、IWCとしては少々珍しいモデルだ。この時代らしいクッションケースもユニークで、サイズは縦35×横35㎜とヴィンテージウォッチとしては大きめ。手元で確かな存在感を放ってくれる。スーツ、ジャケパン、カジュアルと様々なスタイルに相性のいい顔つきだ。37万円
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この取材に訪れたとき、UAの店頭ではピアジェのラインナップが豊富に揃っていた。こちらは1970年代のもので、丸みを帯びた角形のケースに、光の当たり方によって色合いが変化するグレー文字盤、キリッと立ち上がったアップライト・バーインデックスが目を引く。独自の24金マイクロローターを搭載した薄型の自動巻きムーブメントが採用されている。縦30×横32㎜。55万円
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パテック フィリップ 1968年
ドレスウォッチの王様として知られるカラトラバのデザインを踏襲したモデル。珍しいブラックマットダイヤルで、極めて良好なコンディションを維持しているのが素晴らしい。ケース径は定番の「96」や「3796」よりもひと回り大きい32.5㎜。メーカーアーカイブ取得済み。90万円
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コルム 1960年代
ベゼルの太いラウンドケースに彫金をほどこしたデザインと、これまた繊細なクル ド パリの文様を彫り込んだダイヤルが存在感たっぷり。この時代のコルムに特有の顔つきだ。ケース径は34㎜とこの時代にしては大きめな部類に入るが、ベゼル部分が太いため文字盤自体は小さく、コンパクトな凝縮感があるのが特徴。ホワイトゴールドケース。27万5000円
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